Soft-Hackle Hares Ear

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Guiding has allowed me the opportunity to examine lots of my clients fly boxes over the years.

Quite often I open a fly box and just find a bunch of bream poppers and traditional old school attractor wet flies. I know it sounds crazy but it’s the reality in my region of work. I pause for a few seconds scanning their box intently, and try to give the impression they didn’t waist their money trying to stock their fly box at the local Walmart. I then quickly reply, “No worries, I’ve got plenty of flies that will work today for you”.

Seriously though, even when I actually get an angler with a decent selection of usable fly patterns in his/her fly box, I consistently notice one fly pattern that’s absent time and time again. The soft-hackle hares ear is the missing fly I’m referring to here, and although it’s just as deadly at catching fish as its cousin the soft-hackle pheasant-tail, for some reason rookie and intermediate level fly fishermen aren’t being told to stock them.

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Tim Rajeff Fishes Two Fly Lines On One Rod

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Watch the Video!

If you think you’ve seen everything in fly-fishing, check out this video with Tim Rajeff.

Want to catch twice the fish? Try fishing twice the line. OK, obviously this is a joke but it’s also an overt display of casting skill. Not satisfied with with being one of the worlds greatest fly casters, Tim Rajeff has actually learned to cast two fly lines at once, with a single rod.

I don’t know of any practical application for this technique, but it’s amazing to watch. If you struggle to cast one line without a tangle, watching Tim Place two flies, side by side, without a hitch might make you scream. If you figure out who to catch two fish at once doing this, please send us a photo!

WATCH THIS VIDEO TO SEE TIM RAJEFF BEING A BADASS.

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Is Pay-To-Play Fly Fishing Good For Anybody?

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By Louis Cahill

If you pay hundreds of dollars for the chance to catch a really big trout on someones private water, are you doing the right thing?

Pay-to-play fishing is a hot button issue. It came up in conversation the other day so I thought I’d put my two cents in. I don’t have any data to back this up, but my guess is that a pretty small percentage of anglers regularly pay to fish private water. I’d guess that a fare number of us do it a time or two and move on and a very small number do little else. On the other hand there are an equally small number who would never consider it.

What you figure out pretty quickly is, whenever pay-to-play comes up, there’s going to be an argument. The fur usually starts to fly when fish size becomes the topic. If you are boasting about catching a trophy size trout on your local pay-to-play water you’re very likely going to hear how, “That fish doesn’t count,” or how, “That’s bullshit.” 

It’s true that there is no comparing a hand fed pet to a wild fish of the same size. Perhaps there is no comparing the effort or skill that went into catching those fish, but there is certainly no comparing how unique, special or important those two fish are. Wild trophy size trout are a treasure and should be treated as such. All of that said, if you are boasting about the size of your fish to establish yourself as a superior angler, you’re probably a douche bag. If you’re trying to spoil someone else’s excitement by calling their fish bullshit, you’re just as bad. That’s my opinion.

Focusing on numbers or size takes the fun out of fishing for me. I don’t count fish and when I do measure a fish it’s about appreciating what a special fish it is and how fortunate I was to catch it. Not for one instant do I hold to the idea that it makes me special as an angler. I’ve been at this long enough to know that humility is waiting in the next run. I like to hear anglers talk about special fish and I like to talk about them too. I think that’s something we all share, I just think it sucks when it ends in an argument.

SO HERE ARE SOME FACTS ABOUT PAY-TO-PLAY FISHING.

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Which Fly Rod Action Is Best For You?

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By Kyle Wilkinson

How does the angler know what fly rod action will best suite their needs and casting style?

If you’re an experienced angler reading this you may already know the answer to the topic of today’s discussion. However, I have a strong feeling many people reading this don’t fall into that category and have on more than one occasion heard the term “fast action” or “medium action” and thought to themselves, ‘What in the hell? All I want is a fly rod I can take to the river and catch a fish with!’

If you’ve ever found yourself in that situation — or if you’re in the market for a new fly rod but don’t know what makes the most sense to add to your line up — then I highly encourage you to read on!

It’s no secret that fly rods come in all shapes and sizes these days and with the continued advancements we’re seeing in rod building technologies, the corresponding actions are getting more and more refined. This can be confusing to interpret for any angler out there, regardless of skill.

But back to the question of which action is right for you? In my opinion, the short answer to this is simply going to depend on the type of fishing conditions you’re going to be facing. Now I’m sure some of you are already thinking that both angler skill and angler preference are major factors as well and you’re correct — I’ll be sure to touch on this as well.

For the sake of keeping things simple though, let’s take a 10,000-foot view of this topic and break fly rods down into the three most dominant categories (slow, medium, fast) and where I find their most useful applications to be.

Slow Action. It seems most rod companies tend to shy away from the phrase ‘slow action’ these days and use terms such as ‘full flex’ or ‘presentation taper’ to categorize these type of rods. Additionally, you’re usually going to see these rods predominantly offered in sub 9’ lengths, with rods down to 6’ long not out of the question. To the newer angler, the first thing you’ll likely notice when picking up a slow/full flex rod is that

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Bonefish — Getting into the game

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by John Byron

You’re giving thought to going on your first bonefish expedition, but you want more information. 

You’re in luck — there’s a ton of great advice out there from true experts. 

But much of that super info is geared to someone already in the game who wants to do better. 

Let me approach the topic from the opposite direction, that of the true beginner, which I was four years ago and largely still am. 

In a previous blog posting here, I gave you a flats-level view of the subject in A Beginner’s Guide to Catching Bonefish.

Here’s my take on the topic at Angels Twenty, the picture seen from 20,000 feet: what are the true basics for someone considering their first bonefish adventure?

Destination: The first question is where to go.

The Bahamas are the most accessible for most people.
Which island to go to deserves research, but they all provide pretty good fishing.
The Keys and Hawaii have big fish, but it’s advanced-level fishing and not good for a first-timer.
Belize has lots and lots of fish, but they tend to run a bit smaller than other places.
More exotic destinations — e.g., Christmas Island; the Seychelles — are great fishing, but they’re pretty daunting as a starting place.
Ease of travel will enter into your considerations.
When: What time of year.

As always, the best time to go fishing is when you can.
But you have to consider the hurricane season; it’s a crapshoot, plus many operations close then.
And a cold front in winter can affect the fishing in the more northern Bahamas destinations (though with bigger fish in the offing too).
Accommodations: Gotta eat and sleep somewhere.

Easiest access to the sport is a hosted “bonefish school.”
Gink & Gasoline; Orvis.
All arrangements made except travel to/from.
Expert help from the host and from guides geared to those new to the sport.
Nice chow, sleeping, amenities.
Next easiest is a trip put together by one of the outfits that packages fishing trips.
Nervous Waters, Deneki, H2O Bonefishing, The Fly Shop, Yellow Dog, others.
Most difficult is the do-it-yourself trip.
Attractive if you’re pinching pennies.
But odds of getting skunked and frustrated as a newcomer are pretty high.
Trip Duration: How much time will your first trip for bonefish take?

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4 Tips For Capturing Better Release Shots of Your Fish

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Your best shot at capturing a good photograph of you and your catch, is first having someone along with you that’s competent with a camera in their hands.

But even a world class photographer will tell you, it’s extremely difficult getting those picture perfect photographs, if the person handling the fish has no clue what their doing. Some of my favorite fly fishing shots to look at are catch and release shots, because there seems to be something extra moving about capturing the release of a fish in a photograph. Problem is, release shots are often some of the hardest photographs to pull off on the water. You have to have satisfactory light and adequate water clarity, but even with both of those, much of your success will ultimately be determined by the cooperation of the fish your shooting. Below are four tips for capturing better release shots that Louis and I have learned through trial and error over the years. Followed correctly, they should increase your chances at getting that perfect catch and release shot.

Tip 1: Choose a Calm Stretch of Water for the Release When Possible
Fast moving water isn’t optimal. If you can find a nice eddy or a calm stretch of water close by, you’ll find it much easier to photograph a nice release shot. In most cases, slower moving water will provide you with better water clarity for showcasing the fish below the surface during the release. I’ve also found it’s much easier to handle and keep the fish in proper position in slower moving water.

Tip 2: Keep Your Catch Calm and Relaxed
Don’t be in a rush to get the shot. Keep the fish in the water and in the net until it has calmed down before you move forward with the release shot. This is especially true if you land the fish quickly. A hot fish generally will swim off so fast, it will be

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The Roll Cast Mend

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Do you ever find yourself on the water when a regular mend won’t provide you with a long enough drag free drift to catch trout?

This usually occurs when you’re trying to get a drift across multiple currents on the far bank or when you’re trying to fish a soft seam, adjacent to faster water, that’s too far away from you to high-stick. In these two situations, a standard mend will usually not provide you with enough slack to keep your dry fly drifting naturally to the position of the rising trout or give your nymphs enough time to sink down into the strike zone.

When I find myself fly fishing in this situation,

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Flathead Mayfly Nymphs Rule

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If you take the time to to flip over enough rocks in moderate moving water you’re bound to find lots of Flathead Mayfly (Heptageniidae) clinger nymphs of various sizes. These three and two tailed flat bodied nymphs, with robust legs and broad heads are very important for fly anglers. Quill Gordons, March Browns, Hendrickson, Light Cahill, Pink Quill and Gray Fox are some of the popular species that belong to the flathead family. To date, there’s been fly patterns created for over 45 different species in 10 different genera of the flathead family. Because there’s usually multiple species found in any given watershed, I typically find trout keep them on the food menu year round. The subsurface nymph patterns seem to produce nice trout for me even when fishing conditions are really tough. Oddly enough, I rarely find a good variety of patterns that imitate the nymph stage in my local fly shops. Below is a pattern I tie as a general all-around nymph imitation for the flathead “clinger” mayfly. It’s designed to mimic the bold features of the flathead, and it’s landed many big fish for me the past few seasons.

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Simms Flyweight Access Boot, a true breakthrough

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I have hated every rubber soled boot I’ve ever worn, until now. Up to now, when I heard the words “rubber sole” I just heard, “wet, cold and hurt.” There has never been a rubber soled boot that gripped better than a Converse Allstar, as far as I’m concerned. There are a handful of really cool features in the new Flyweight Access Boot but the big news is, IT ACTUALLY WORKS! The first day I wore these boots I forgot I wa wearing rubber soles. I felt every bit as confident in them as I do in my felt sole boots, and they far exceed felt for grip on trails and slippery banks. I have absolutely no reservations saying, this is the best rubber sole wading boot ever made. Watch the video to hear my review of the new Simms Flyweight Access Boot.

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Tim Rajeff’s Abstract Hyper- Distance Theory of Fly Casting

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Watch the Video!

SO YOU WANT TO MAKE A LONG FLY CAST? WHO BETTER TO TELL YOU HOW THAN FORMER WORLD CHAMPION TIM RAJEFF.

The name Rajeff rings out in the world of competitive fly casting. Brothers Tim and Steve have been a force of nature for decades, holding a slew of records between them. Like any siblings, there’s been a little competition too.

“In order to beat my brother, I had to learn a whole new way of casting,” Tim told me.

Tim did eventually best his brother with a style of casting he playfully refers to as “Abstract Hyper-Distance Theory”

“It’s abstract because you would never fish that way,” he explains.

Still, much of this casting technique has made it into real fly fishing. Some of the best casters I know use Tim’s technique very effectively in their fly fishing. It’s not for the faint of heart but if you are looking to throw long casts, even in heavy wind, this will help you do it.

WATCH THIS VIDEO AND LEARN TIM RAJEFF’S ABSTRACT HYPER- DISTANCE THEORY OF FLY CASTING.

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